![]() ![]() Years now after buying that die tool, I am swimming in gas checks and shooting all I want anytime I want. ![]() However it was a PITA for me to be out of checks when these suppliers inventory ran out so I tookĬontrol of the situation, spent $100 for the die tool to make my own checks and the tool paid for itself in 5 months and two Low volume cast bullet shooters don't much care, a box of 1000 checks isĪ long time supply. Gas checks at hit or miss supply and availability at Midway or Grafs, at 3 cents each is no bargain in cost nor reliability Since I make my own gas checks at 10 for a penny, the use of gas checks has allowed me to shoot cast up to Now, one can argue other bullet designs may not need them, mine did and My accuracy with rifle bullets (no matter how slow or fast I push them, no matter the bullet hardness) was erratic If you want a factor for rifle bullets that is not mentioned deeply in this thread, the subject is gas checks. To be all day long, fact is you got to experiment and find out what works. I know others who shoot pure WW for rifles with no drama. I do alloy so I don't shoot pure WW or Linotypeįor rifles. I will continue to do so.īullet hardness: its trial & error. I slug my bores and size my bullets to properly fit bores (its a longĮstablished cast bullet practice) and its been working fine for me. My molds don't drop bullets that require no sizing for my rifles or pistols. If I were you Expert I would start with air cooled weights dropped straight from the mold and double lubed. Proper lubing is also a big factor with cast bullets. And blow by or gas cutting to the base will cause leading issues. So that it will seal the bore an stop blow by around the base from expended gases. If your fit to bore is not as it should be, you can drive a hard bullet through the bore and get quite a bit of leading because the bullet will just skip over the lands and get shaved.Īnd you also need your bullet soft enough to obtain obturation. Many find air cooled wheel weights plenty hard enough for most of their applications.Īnd it is not always a good thing to have a very hard bullet. You just have to play around with it and find what works best for you. More lead, less tin or antimony of course a softer alloy. Less lead and more tin or antimony will of course create a harder alloy. Which also adds to the hardening of the alloy. Wheel weights contain Lead (95%), Tin (0.5%) antimony (4%). But as milprileb pointed out, not all wheel weights have the same amount of the differing alloys. Its summer now so you can lay out the 4500 on the patio in sun for half hour and be ripping along ! You will learn how much heat will make your lube work for you and how to sustain that level of head using the lamp. Just aim the light at back of 4500 and close to it, come back in 20 minutes and your lube will be warm and flow easily and ease your extraction issues as well. You do know the 4500 works better if the unit is warmed (use a desk lamp to do it, the cheapo bend neck kind kids have on desks and Walmart sells). At the time it was pure Lino so some WW added solved the issue. I suspect your bullets are really too hard for the sizer to handle w/o Godzilla efforts, been there and had to modify my alloy. Not all WW are same metal so your next batch of alloy could be softer even if water cooled (quenched). Click to expand.If you cast pure Lino or Wheel Weights, they may be too hard and difficult to size, do try not water quenching and see if its better. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |